I collected the raw tubes earlier in the week, which is enough for 4 pieces, but still looking for somebody to do the smaller pipes that the downpipes fit into. This means I can start the 2-1 and outlet bend assembly, but obviously I really need to start at the front first, so these down pipe bends are a bit of a nuisance.


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I finally got round to flattening out this rubber sheet, scanning it and drawing around it in CAD.



Here is the 2D .dxf file, contact me if you want it in another format.

rubber_shield.dxf

This is the start of a CAD model which is based on my prototype collector, and this drawing is my way of working out what angle & length mandrel bends I need to fabricate a 4-2-1 collector to replace the catalytic converter. The front pipe merge collectors are well sorted, just got to do a little more work on two of the three remaining bends.

Looks ever more promising, as I have found a mandrel bender near me too.

I built a crankshaft rig, to save me having to work outside. I use a cordless drill on the right hand side to rotate the crank. I use first gear on the drill to simulate a cranking speed of upto 400rpm, and second gear to replicate an idle speed of 1100rpm. I managed to get a trace of the VR signal using a handheld Velleman scope, which unfortunately doesn’t have a USB output, so I have to take a photo instead.



A better view of the trace can be seen below, which has been adjusted in iPhoto to improve clarity.



These are virtually identical to an FZ700 trace that a guy called frost on the MicroSquirt forums has posted which I have included as it better than my efforts, however I wasn’t that fussed about using a 240V CRT oscilloscope in the rain outside on a running bike. :lol:



This is a picture of the crank sensor end, notice the large milled slot and the plugged big end oil drilling at 4 o’clock.



Now all I have to do is boot a new program into the MicroSquirt and power the crank up. The new program logs the pulses from the VR sensor, and hopefully it will shed some light on what direction this project can take next. I am reluctant to make a hardware change to the crank (machine the slot and rebalance the crank), so I’d really like to explore the software options first. Unfortunately this is new territory for me, so I expect a delay whilst I raise my game.

You gotta laugh sometimes, as I was watching something on eBay, and I got notified of it ending soon. It was a series of Multilock connectors that were coming up, that didn't look anything like a GTS1000 ECU version, but guess what...this is a front view



and this is an overall three quarter view


and two outta three ain't bad

So there is another part out there that will do, all you have to do is cut off the surplus part or use it for the Wideband O2 sensor option or Coil On Plug capability that will come with the MicroSquirt Sequencer, when that happens though I have no idea.

Just a quick update on these AMP connectors. The OEM ECU has one 42 pin (42P) socket, or horizontal cap housing, but being a newbie to these connectors I just found out they we made as hybrids. So you got a mixture of pins, 040 and 070 varieties. Our bikes have a 26P hybrid on the left, and a 16P on the right. Nearly all 26P cap housing hybrids have a 6-10-4 arrangement when viewed from the front and going left to right.





The 26P wiring loom hybrid plug was marked 10763 which it turns out was not a reference number you could search for, but I did find it on a pdf.



This another version of the hybrid connector, the same thing but just swapped left and right




In order to interface the AMPSEAL connector I could buy a 42P vertical cap housing, sleeve the wires with shrink wrap and solder to the back of the 42P contacts. The other options are to use a 26P hybrid cap housing and a 16P cap housing or plug connector. As these connectors were made some time ago, having a degree of flexibility is useful as availability and becoming obsolete is an issue now.

16P left hand ECU equivalent female socket

This is a reversed ECU connector.


26P Hybrid 040/070 Multilock

Detail from 26P hybrid Multilock 040/070




16P Vertical cap housing

The easiest way to get the MicroSquirt to integrate with the GTS1000 loom, is to make an interconnect between the two. I am on the look out for some inline female connectors and pins that will linkup to the existing ECU loom plugs.

The connector looks like this, and it is an AMP Multilock 040/070 Hybrid component.




These connectors seem to be quite hard to get hold of, but they were quite common and fitted to Toyotas as this loom shot shows



The GTS1000 loom has two connectors that are the same as the left and right ones in this pic above, the left one is a 26P and the right a 16P type, but the left connector has two different sized pins, which you can just make out four on the left and six on the right.
Fortunately, there are quite a few folks out there that like these Toyotas, and there is a company making bespoke loom adaptors for them, and after lurking on a few forums found this link. http://www.boomslang.us They make products like this.



Time to send an email.

This is the GTS1000 crankshaft trigger detail, the camshaft trigger is the camshaft lobe passing close to a variable reluctance sensor. If you look on the MicroSquirt forum, there is a link to the MSextra section. This is an additional code area for these little boxes, and it looks like they support the GTS1000 system, which is called 4+1CAS, that is 4 crank trigger events to 1 camshaft trigger event. The camshaft trigger is the reference pulse that tells the ECU where the crank is.



Hope this helps anybody else who's looking, as it took me quite some time to sort through all the info that is posted, and there is loads of the stuff.

Finally pulled the GTS1000 crankcase from a gash bottom end, and it's a surprise of sorts. Thought I had spotted four pits in the GTS crank, that are used for crank position sensing, and there are.



and compared to the Thunderace and the FZR1000 (right) there are some significant differences. The Thunderace and FZR are both 8-1 tooth (almost), the missing tooth or reference position is the single milled slot as opposed to the seven part drillings. No wonder the Thunderace project wouldn't fire using the GTS1000 ECU.



Looks like I could mod the crank, but I think I will end up using a new ECU. The MicroSquirt is small, looks good and is a fair price too.



Go to http://www.microsquirt.com for more info,

GTS1000 fuel filters are expensive over here, and not that cheap in Europe. Last time I looked on a European site they were close on €70 each. Now you are supposed to change them every two years or 24000 miles, so I am about due one. Apparently, in the UK they were £78 two years ago, and I wasn't going to pay that much to Yamaha for a £2 part, so I started looking for a pattern replacement. First you need the dimensions of the old one and although I have two bikes, I really couldn't be bothered to remove the plastic just to do the research and then bolt it back for the commute to work, besides it was cold and wet outside.


Fuel filter dimensions, with Yamaha part reference

OEM fuel filter in rubber mounting cradle.

Problem is this filter is pretty unique, and after looking at several other reference documents, I only ever found a slightly longer version, and so it seems did others. In the USA they quote a Purofilter F44661, but in the UK this number is no use. A slightly longer version was made, at 125mm overall, that was fitted to several Japanese cars circa 1995 and later, so I looked for some cross references to this unit and found these numbers.

Vehicle cross references above with another version I found below whilst searching for later cross references.

However this guy below was the winner, and I ordered one from Japtec in the UK to check it out. A few days later it arrived.
I ended up with a universal version, Solid Ace M303020, which is marginally longer than the original, and it fits under the plastic too. Not bad for a couple of days work, and cheap as chips too. I'd love to tell you how much, but it would embarrass Yamaha UK, suffice to say it's sub £10.

My bike was a Swiss model originally, which was fitted with a single H4, Hi/Lo bulb, so I changed it for a UK spec headlight which came with a split reflector design, comprising of a H4 Hi/Lo Beam (Main/Dip) section and a H3 Hi Beam (Main) section.

The only issue was the lighting was poor. At moderate speeds on a country lane, you’d drive on Lo or dip beam and have your finger on the flash button, as you accelerated out of the corners or braked into them, just to light up enough road...something had to be done. I needed to upgrade the lighting, and first choice is better bulbs. I did try a 100/80W unit, but although better, things got a little too warm. Then I read about HIDs, 3x the light output for 2/3rds the power, so a 55W bulb was replaced by a 35W unit. The way they work is they use a step up unit to create high (kV) voltage and use an arc process to create the light. As they don’t rely on heating a coil of wire, generating heat and a small amount of light they are more efficient.

I looked at acquiring some HIDs in the UK, but they were way top heavy, so I looked elsewhere, good ‘ol China c/o eBay, and noted I’d need a H4 & H3 set up, which I duly ordered and eagerly awaited their arrival, as I wanted to fit them before the 2007 Treffen.

When they arrived, I whipped off the sidepanels and front fairing, and investigated a place to put them. The only problem it was chucking it down with rain, so I built a makeshift tent, using a leftover climbing rope, and a tarpaulin.



Above, GTS1000 in a makeshift tent, very wet outside, but HIDs working, and that’s just Lo or dip beam, plus I am not looking at it!



Looking at the space available, couldn’t really fit them around the steering column. The stains are from blowing anti-freeze, due to a faulty coolant reservoir cap rubber.



Neither was the space under the headlight any good, pictured above, but the area above the headlight showed the most promise, pictured below.



So that’s where the igniters went...



... and you could still get the front fairing cowl on...



Job well done, and a lot brighter.

Yamaha GTS1000 ABS pump units are very expensive, and apparently are similar to the FJ1100 units. Info on stripping them down is available on the internet, but I started from a unit that had been bought as bits, and stored in the loft. The sole reason for stripping the unit down was to investigate the O ring sizes, so that the units could be serviced like any other brake part, rather than be replaced. Read More...