http://www.mjscrane.com/index.htmlHot News!en2013-09-14T20:24:54+01:00 hourly 1 2000-01-01T12:00+00:00 Fri, 15 Mar 2013 20:17:39 +00002014 Engine2013-09-14T20:24:54+01:00http://www.mjscrane.com/panhard/1130cc/files/28b1b52f2b2599c3877fdaeb2baf26bc-11.html#unique-entry-id-11http://www.mjscrane.com/panhard/1130cc/files/28b1b52f2b2599c3877fdaeb2baf26bc-11.html#unique-entry-id-11
I have decided to replace the oil pump relief valve that dumps oil into the sump, and replace this with a new oil relief valve combined into the oil light piston.



This has the added benefit of boosting the oil pressure in the camshaft gallery and enhancing the performance of the plain bearing surfaces. If you have a later engine and modify the oil drillings, and also block off the side drilling that feeds the timing gears, that’s the crankshaft & camshaft double chevron gears, then you are in a win win situation.

I can adjust the relief valve pressure fro the default 4 bar or higher, but you can only use the higher values if you modify the oil pump outlet, as shown… essentially you are radiussing the pump outlet and enlarging the feed into the crankcase to reduce the back pressure and cavitation.

I created a spreadsheet to do the calculations...



The “depression” value is the recess to the set screw.


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CAD model has been totally redrawn and updated from yesterday’s attempt, and this is now a very close approximation of the direction I will be taking, with a calculated bare weight of 520 Gr. This is a reduction of 60 grams on the first CAD version, and well within target to beat the all up weight of the original 85mm Panhard piston, which was 636 Gr in standard trim (Tigre engines sometimes had lighter pistons).









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Realistically these pistons will be double the price of the initial batch I had made for Brian’s engine, but the important difference is, unlike other big bore solutions, no cylinder head separation or liner sinking operations will be required, so no pushrod, pushrod tubes or cowling mods will have to be made either. So although the new piston costs more, the amount of other work is considerably less, so it will bring other savings. The liners will be brand new and bespoke, so all that is required is a remachined original cylinder and crankcase, which you have to do anyway.

Please note, unlike Brians piston, the new piston will also feature an offset pin to reduce the crank pin loads, and the skirt designed to accommodate this too. Offset pin forgings are not available at this depth, so that’s another reason for creating a new forging tool.

Back to the piston sketches, first thoughts, a few errors in the drawing, but enough for a ball park doodle. This still represents unfinished business yet, but the 580 Gr calculated piston weight is still less than the 94mm BMW R100 piston already, and there is more to come off, when I re-profile some elements later. Over the next few weeks, I am going to produce a few variants in CAD, then see which has the most production viability.





If you are interested in these pistons, I suggest you contact me, otherwise you will miss out.]]>2014 Engine2013-04-15T22:36:10+01:00http://www.mjscrane.com/panhard/1130cc/files/940846b718c7eba94e9b87527faada7c-8.html#unique-entry-id-8http://www.mjscrane.com/panhard/1130cc/files/940846b718c7eba94e9b87527faada7c-8.html#unique-entry-id-8


but this is better skunkworks. I have a 44mm DCNF carburettor lying around, so I thought it might make a useful addition to the standard 38mm Zenith NDIX, but it won’t fit on a standard inlet manifold. Time for a CAD session, and rustle up another 3D model.



As you can see the big bore project is gaining momentum.
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Latest version for twin spark set up using the Imfsoft IgnitionTCI 6.1 pictured below.





This is the proposed external sensor appearance, without the front pulley seal being fitted.



The ferrous trigger is simple enough too, as it’ll be a self coloured M6 stud (at the moment) , turned from hex bar, and threaded into the aluminium timing gear with a dab of Loctite.



Bench testing has been carried out using a wasted spark system, but I am still awaiting the Bosch Kompakt connectors for the twin single fire coils.
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The Peugeot sensors are shorter, so allow for better EFI triggers to be used (more depth), but they are taller out of the cover than the BMW sensors. They also have to be recessed into the timing cover, so that they will clear the fan, although there is a plan for this later on the big bore engine.

Here is the wasted spark single tooth variant, or a twin spark and EFI capable version, assuming you are using a toothed wheel and suitable ignition controller, which only needs a single sensor.



The second sensor slot isn’t drilled all the way through, but all the critical machining is done to enable twin spark with the planned ignition controller.



This means you can start with wasted spark, and upgrade to twin spark later, or change to a different ignition controller, use a toothed wheel, and do twin spark & EFI, just like a modern car. For example, this type of toothed wheel will run MS Extra, B&G code on the MegaSquirts & MicroSquirts, plus all the usual suspects DTA, Omex, Emerald and Lumenition, in a sequential or wasted spark mode.



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Although they aren’t designed to have an O ring seal, I can modify the cover to allow for this and at the same create a drip free joint. The OEM fitment uses the ribs in the sides to push fit into the crankcase hole, and the screw just stops it jumping out.

A few tweaks to the 3D model and it will be finished…again!, but as I am testing the trigger wheel designs in the next few days, it might change again, if I don’t get good signal traces. :)]]>2014 Engine2013-03-31T21:28:42+01:00http://www.mjscrane.com/panhard/1130cc/files/b1b4f0113eb03258da2d72061c6cf54a-4.html#unique-entry-id-4http://www.mjscrane.com/panhard/1130cc/files/b1b4f0113eb03258da2d72061c6cf54a-4.html#unique-entry-id-4
I am struggling to identify the functions of the pinouts for the E46 BMW Hall effect sensor. I now know they are Hall Effect and not eddy current, variable reluctance sensors or whatever you want to call them, as they have magnetic tips. Thank you Jean Paul.

However I am really struggling to ascertain their values, even though my resident electronics guru in France has given me the clearest instructions. :(

I really feel like the village idiot with this one, because when I correctly dientify the pins, based on their resistances, the sensor still fails to acknowledge any metal or a magnetic with a reference voltage.

If I use a stock two pin or three pin shielded VR sensor, I have no issues whatsoever, and as my motorcycle use these reliably, I am thinking of sticking with these. The favourite at the moment is the crank sensor from the Peugeot 405 & 406, so I am going to redraw and reformat the timing cover to suit this. I can still open the holes up and modify it for a Hall effect sensor, aka BMW E46, if I need to later.

The idea at the moment, because Brian’s engine is driving this, I will fit an aluminium disc with recessed centre & a single Samarium Cobalt (SmCo26) magnet to create the trigger for my ignition nit. It has been mentioned in emails that the magnet will attract iron filings, but personally I think this is a good thing. If the engine develops a misfire, because it has iron filings over the sensor, then you really should be looking at the problem in more detail, not driving it along doing more damage. One of the advantages of using a magnetic disc is the air gap can be opened up, and the cranking voltage is greater. I need a minimum of 1V p-p AC to trigger, and I can comfortable attain this with a 2mm air gap.

If I decide to go down the EFI route (which I am doing) I can use a MicroSquirt or other unit using this same sensor design, but incorporating a different trigger wheel as shown below.



For me this offers the most flexibility for the end user, and also allows for a kit approach to be developed. I can see somebody realistically adding this component to their car over the winter break for example, and wiring up their desired ignition set up too.

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This takes Junior Timer connectors, which don’t need an exotic crimping tool, and it’s the same connector I’d be using on a coil pack and MAP sensor on Brian’s engine, so here’s the revised version, with one hole for the wasted spark triggering system, and another partly machined for the twin plug sequential set up. I have not broken through the front face for the second sensor, but all the mating surfaces are machine, so I just need to drill a hole in the middle, when it’s time to fit the second sensor. They are all 180º apart, so they should be no odd firing intervals!


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Latest variation has been sent off to the 3D modeller, awaiting revised drawings. :-)





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These are visual space models to check clearances, so the timing cover is removed for clarity.]]>2014 Engine2013-03-15T20:18:04+00:00http://www.mjscrane.com/panhard/1130cc/files/6134c66a33739b3e13ae79b20b7aa34b-0.html#unique-entry-id-0http://www.mjscrane.com/panhard/1130cc/files/6134c66a33739b3e13ae79b20b7aa34b-0.html#unique-entry-id-0
Panhard engines have a long history of being over bored, so none of this is new. Historically the most common overbore was a 954 cubic centimetre variant, but the Le Mans derived racers tried all different sizes, as these photographs show.







The big bore engine will also need the latest oil revision modifications, which essentially balance the main bearing crankshaft oil feeds, reduce the lubrication to the timing gears, yet still increase the flow rate from the standard pump, which is more than up to the task. The biggest single improvement, after better filtration, is to add more oil capacity, so this too will be revised.
It goes without saying, you will need a good crankshaft, too, and additionally the standard ignition and breather will be replaced with a better system, more able to cope with the new engine capacity.

The big bore engine parts enquiry has already been started, and as expected, there will be new lighter weight pistons, with new cylinder liners and quite a few esoteric mods for those that want them.

First up is this skunkworks timing cover design. This will be machined from solid aluminium billet, incorporate a Viton oil seal, whose Ø68 mm OD caters for various IDs, from Ø55 to Ø35mm with the option to allow for a Hall effect electronic ignition sensor to be fitted, which will expand the ignition options, and offer more specialised fuelling in the future.

I have already made enquiries about getting a cover made for Brian’s engine, with a limited run thereafter. I anticipate making six big bore engines, as twelve pistons is the minimum order quantity, so it makes sense to have some spare timing gear covers too.







If you are interested, do get in touch, because these will be limited quantity items.]]>